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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.